Great Canadian Hike - Top Shelf Distillers to Murphy's Point PP
On Friday September 26th, I set out to hike from Top Shelf Distillers to Murphy’s Point Provincial Park via the Rideau Trail. I have been a Rideau Trail Association (RTA) member since 2020, I thru-hiked the trail in 2021 and it was a life-changing experience. On this hike I would be going the opposite direction from my thru-hike and was surprised by how unfamiliar many sections felt.
It was another beautiful fall day. The leaves are in full colour now and you get the pleasant soft crunch of leaves underfoot as you hike. After a short walk down the road from the distillery I reached my first stile to enter private property and get on the Rideau Trail. I will admit here, I really don’t like climbing stiles. I'm glad they’re there, I’m appreciative of the land access from private owners, I just don’t like climbing up and over a fence with a backpack on. Conversely, I love a good bridge. As such, I always have photos of both types of features along any of my hikes.
The grass was dewy and damp enough to soak through my shoes, but not unpleasantly cold. I would later regret not wearing my waterproof socks as it ended up being damp all day with periodic drizzles. The route started with some road sections but they were pleasant areas and not too long. I stopped for a lunch break about 7km in, sitting on a fence separating private property from a brief road section.
I encountered a large flock of what I’m assuming was migratory birds. I had limited sightlines through the trees but the sound was incredible. Like a scene from “The Birds”, a cacophony of countless black birds.
The scenery was spectacular. I stopped briefly at a lovely viewpoint by a pond. I was frequently in awe of the stunning colours. Clouds rolled through throughout the day with the constantly changing light giving a fresh perspective on the landscape. As I continued up and over stiles and through woods, I slowly started to see the evidence of the former Mica Mines in the area. Flakes of shimmery mica on the ground and large craters make for an otherworldly scene.
I encountered a few small creatures along the way. A tiny snake, a baby snapping turtle, and a startled, trundling porcupine, along with countless birds, ducks and geese. The sights and sounds of nature filling my heart.
I did briefly lose the trail in the Mica Mines conservation area (about the worst place to get off trail), somehow managing to end up below the small ridge I should have been following rather than on it. I pushed my way through the brush using game or usage paths and navigated my way back to the proper trail safely. At this point in the hike I am getting fairly tired and the terrain is significantly less forgiving. There were some steep and rocky sections, and parts of the trail were significantly overgrown. I certainly don’t mind a little bushwhacking but the challenge was that the plants growing over the trail all seemed to be the type to fight back. Thorny bushes and sharp trees that jabbed, snagged, and cut as you try to carefully duck through. I am glad I knew enough to wear long sleeves and pants.
Entering into Murphy’s Point PP was a relief but I had set my goal for the Lally Homestead, with it’s easily accessible parking area. The trail through the park was certainly easier to follow than the overgrown areas leading up to it. The outhouses in the group camping area were a welcome feature as always, though I was disappointed to find the water spigot had been disconnected for the season. I continued through the park, through the Silver Queen Mica Mines area and around the beaver pond. At this point I can hear heavy rain not far off, the wind is picking up, and the clouds have gotten noticeably darker. I only had a couple kilometres left and I tried to cover them quickly to not get caught in a downpour. I was elated to arrive at the entrance to the Silver Queen Mine trail and make the quick hop across the road to the Lally homestead still mostly dry. Having been here multiple times before and with the threat of a downpour looming, I didn’t go exploring but rather took shelter under the sign and waited for my ride to pick me up.
It was a fantastic hike, on a beautiful fall day, in a stunning region. I ended the day tired and a little sore in the most satisfying way. Hiking is meditative for me, I don’t use earbuds or headphones, instead enjoying the sounds of nature and my own footsteps. Alone with my thoughts, able to disconnect and just be present with the world around me. Nature is healing, pushing our bodies is uplifting, and hiking is a sensory feast for the soul.
You can join or support our team in the Great Canadian Hike here: https://www.greatcanadianhike.ca/fundraisers/TopShelfDistillers